Ohayo gozaimasu! Thankfully this is our last day of trains on trains on trains because for someone like me who hates sitting still this is hard! It also puts me in my baby/grandma mode where I sleep for long periods of time and like to snack a lot.
So far here are the highlights of our transportation adventures: I bought my first bento box for lunch and it wasn’t too shabby (see below), we found the same juice bar brand we found in Kyoto station and of course had to get some, and I left behind our precious walking sticks accidentally on one of the trains (I’m very sad about this but hoping it’ll be paid forward and someone else enjoys them).
Once we got to Takayama after a wholeeee entire day of traveling, we got a taxi to our Ryokan up in the mountains. It was FREEEZING, this was also the first station that didn’t have automatic ticket counters and it was about 1/4 of the size probably even less compared to any of the other stations we have been too. Even though the traveling is absolutely exhausting and I by no means like to be sitting for that long, I think on the bright side it really helped break up the trip a bit more. We moved around so much that I was worried I would feel like I would need a vacation after this vacation. But I think those two big travel days allowed me to nap and rest up π
When we were checking in the guy thought we were a bit crazy because we had a three person style room. However I’m pretty sure that that was the last available option when I booked it. This meant LOTS of room for activities! One of my favorite parts of these Japanese style rooms is that there is the low table with a tea set. I love sitting on the floor and taking some time to chat and relax over tea π All of this extra space meant lots of room for Yoga!! I’ve been loving getting up in the morning and stretching, I really need to start doing that before going to school. Such a better way to start the day π
We realized we weren’t really close to town we were about a mile and a half away from town so it was about a 25 minute walk. We were a bit unsure of how we felt about Takayama since we got there when it was pitch dark and it was SO cold, probably in the 40’s. However, we made our way into town, and followed handy dandy google maps even though it took us through this sketchy route. Back roads of kids playing soccer outside in the dark and some creepy dog that sounded like it was going to rip us to pieces. After lots of sketchy winding dark alleys we finally found the recommended restaurant from the Lonely planet book- Suzuya.
We both ordered the same dish that was served on this mini stove that was decorate on the outside and felt like it was a mixture between clay and wood- still not quite sure what it was made out of. Then on top they placed a hoba leaf which are common in the area and they preserve them to serve their food in top of. We had ordered a mixture of mountain veggies (mushrooms, scallions, etc.) and some tofu with homemade miso that this area is well known for. It was so stinkin good we were literally licking the miso off of the leaf. It was also a very small portion and we were starving so we each ordered a second portion… No shame. We also each ordered wine that came in these wee little glasses.. Definitely hit the spot.
We were the last people in the restaurant and didn’t want to leave because that meal was just too damn good. However, we forced ourselves up and made the trek back to our ryokan. Our original plan was to hike somewhere and find an outdoor onsen to make up for our other strange onsen experiences.
We woke up around 7 to get ready for our Japanese breakfast, dressed to the nines in our robes of course π This meal officially confirmed we needed a break from Japanese cuisine… I think if we had to look at another piece of fish, rice, miso, or god knows what else we would probably cry. If you have been following along throughout my journey, you might recall that I went through this same feeling of frustration when I first got here I was SO tired of stir fry… I had tried making so many different kinds but still had to avoid them for quite some time to cleanse my palate.
Anywho, after breakfast and thinking about it, in order to get to this hike we would have had to take a 3ish hour bus and it would have cost $50 per person and we really just did not want to be on a bus after spending the entire previous day on trains. This was a okay by me, we had more time to stretch/do yoga, hit up the onsen that they had, and then make our way into town for more activities.
We decided the onsen situation is kind of like goldilocks, we had to find which one was just right for us. The first one at Teruteya was super sketchy and questionably sanitary, the second one at Yunomine onsen was super traditional and authentic, this third one was the perfect mix. It was cleaner and had the same process but it was more westernized as in it kind of looked like a locker room and the onsen was more likeΒ a big hot tub… Twas lovely.
After morning relaxation time, we headed on into town to rent bikes! Takayama is a pretty small town and very easy to walk around. We rented the bikes for an hour and decided just to zoom around wherever we could. Of course we had to stop here and there because the views were just too damn gorgeous. The weather could not have been more perfect. When we woke up I was a bit worried because it was competlrly foggy, the entire sky was white! But once we got out there the sky had completely cleared and it was perfectly blue and sunny with just enough breeze so it wasn’t too hot. All of the trees were really starting to flourish in their colors which created an unbelievable fall foliage atmosphere.
It felt so good to be on a bike and really move after being cramped up on train all day yesterday! After our bike we started wandering through town and did what we are best at-wandering in markets and trying the foods. Like I said this town specializes in Hida beef, miso, and mochi. There were so many cute little mom and pop stores and I loved trying everything. The miso here was out of this world, I bought some from that restaurant we went to because I knew I loved it so much π we also tried some of this honey that was diluted in honey water that was OUT OF THIS WORLD. I was so tempted to buy some but I knew it wasn’t really that worth it.
It really worked out perfectly that both Sherry and I were in the mood to shop because boy did we shop until we dropped. I got so many things, it was so fun! We bought matcha powder to use in my shakes or maybe even trying to make my own lattes π I bought two different packets of veggies in miso sauce, one was bamboo shoots and one was cucumber…. More on that later this week! I also bought this string balls as decoration to hang in my room… Not sure how else to describe them. I found a small teacup to start using when I make tea π also, I bought 2 beautiful hand dyed scarves and a headband. I think that might be it but boy was it fun!!
We had lunch at this cute little place and had soup with soba noodles and veggies…hit da spot!! Then we made our way up to this park and walked around and embraced the beautiful atmosphere, I still am not over it. Next we were on a mission for ice cream. There was this one place we really liked with funky flavor but you couldn’t try them which made us nervous. Sooo we went back to the cute little old Japanese man with the matcha powder and bought some ice cream and he even sprinkled matcha powder on top. As you can tell from this picture, our energy and happiness sky rocketed… Yes, I realize I need a break from ice cream after this week but until the week is over I shall enjoy every second.
We made the trek back and rested for a bit before bundling up to make the trek back downtown. It’s crazy to think that we walked probably about 9 miles between our multiple treks downtown and walking around all day, I was sore! As I mentioned, we were so tired of Japanese food so we were on the hunt for anything but Japanese. There were a bunch of Italian places in the area but they were all pretty sketchy. For example, we checked on out and no one was there, just the chef chilling on her computer. The menu was kinda blah and it smelled like cigarettes. Naturally I fell down the stairs on my way out, classic Lindsay.
We finally found this Mexican place that was also in lonely planet called Chapala. We shared guac and corn chips, a veggie salad (ice burg lettuce, cucumbers, and tomatoes in Russian dressing- bleh but I needed veggies), and we each got our own vegetarian burritos. There weren’t actually any veggies but I guess this just meant no meat. There were a tortilla, rice (we can’t escape it apparently), beans and some sort of cheese. My favorite was the guac, trying the different hot sauces, and also the Moscow mules we ordered hehe π
Overall, I LOVED Takayama. The markets were fun, I loved biking and walking around the shops, and of course the mountains and trees. It definitely reaffirmed it for me that I need to live by the water and the mountains… I love the crisp air and the feeling of being surrounded by so much beautiful nature. The night was great with lots of deep talks just about life in general, those are my favorite.
Tomorrow we head back to Nagoya!! I will miss a lot of things about this week but I’m ready to go home π that means we did it right though!
Sayonara!
The Traveling Teacher 
